Tiffany & Co. Ruby and Diamond Ring by Jean Schlumberger, circa 1980

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Jean Schlumberger, a French-born jewelry designer renowned for his whimsical and playful designs, was born in Paris in 1907. He studied at the École des Beaux-Arts before embarking on a career as a freelance designer for prestigious fashion houses, including Schiaparelli. In 1956, Schlumberger joined Tiffany & Co., where he remained until he died in 1987.

Tiffany & Co. Blue Enamel Earrings by Jean Schlumberger

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Jean Schlumberger

Jean Schlumberger, circa 1949. Source

Schlumberger's designs for Tiffany & Co. drew inspiration from nature, art and mythology. His innovative use of unconventional materials such as shells, coral, and feathers, combined with high-quality metals, set his work apart. His pieces often featured asymmetrical and organic forms, bold colors, and geometric shapes, marking a departure from Tiffany's traditional designs and helping to modernize the company's image.

Tiffany & Co. Ceylon Sapphire and Garnet Ring by Jean Schlumberger. M.S. Rau, sold.

An iconic example of Jean Schlumberger’s charming aesthetic, the “bird on a rock” brooch design features a diamond-encrusted cockatoo perched atop a rare gemstone. The bird brooch is one of the firm’s most legendary designs, showcasing Schlumberger's whimsical style. The moment Schlumberger unveiled this work to fellow Tiffany designers was actually documented by famous fashion journalist Eugenia Sheppard in a 1965 article for the New York Herald Tribune. Sheppard recounted, "When he sat down and pressed open the lid of the blue velvet box...everybody smiled.” The design was so captivating and delightful that an additional “bird" brooch, set with the iconic yellow Tiffany diamond, graces the cover of Tiffany’s 20th Century book. 

Elsa Peretti, born in Barcelona, Spain in 1940, was a celebrated jewelry designer who left an indelible mark on Tiffany & Co. She studied sculpture at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera in Milan and initially worked as a model for designers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga and Christian Dior. In 1969, Peretti met renowned fashion designer Halston, who encouraged her to design jewelry. Her first collection for his fashion house was a resounding success.

In 1974, Peretti began her long and fruitful collaboration with Tiffany & Co., creating a wide range of iconic jewelry designs, including the Bean, the Bone, the Open Heart and Diamonds by the Yard. Her minimalist and organic designs, often inspired by natural forms, became immensely popular among celebrities and socialites, significantly contributing to Tiffany & Co.'s global success.

Elsa Peretti

Tiffany & Co. Black Jade Pendant by Elsa Peretti. M.S. Rau, sold.

Paloma Picasso

Paloma Picasso, born in Vallauris, France in 1949, is a jewelry designer whose creativity was undoubtedly influenced by her illustrious parents—artist Pablo Picasso and writer Françoise Gilot. Picasso showed an early talent for art, starting to draw and paint at a young age.

In 1971, she moved to New York City and quickly immersed herself in the city's vibrant fashion scene. By 1980, Picasso began designing jewelry for Tiffany & Co., and her bold and graphic designs became an instant success. Known for their vivid colors, playful spirit, and innovative use of semi-precious stones and unconventional materials, her creations are inspired by childhood memories, travels, and a deep love of art. Paloma Picasso's work continues to be celebrated for its unique blend of artistic heritage and modern flair.

Tiffany & Co. Tourmaline Earrings by Paloma Picasso

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Tiffany & Co. Tourmaline Ring by Paloma Picasso

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Elsa Peretti. Source

Shell Necklace and Earring Suite by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. M.S. Rau, sold.

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Bird on a Rock